How I Mix My Own Substrates for Healthier Roots

Where It Started

When I first started collecting, I used whatever potting mix the plant came in. I didn’t think much about it at first. Some plants grew fine, but others struggled. After a while, I noticed a pattern. The ones that stayed too wet were usually the ones that didn’t make it. The soil was heavy, soggy, and left no room for air.

That’s when I started experimenting. I learned that tropicals like anthurium and alocasia don’t like sitting in dense soil. They need structure, airflow, and moisture without staying soaked. Once I began mixing my own substrates, everything changed. Roots grew faster, plants recovered quicker, and rot became rare.

Why I Mix My Own Substrates

Every plant has different needs. Some prefer constant moisture, while others need to dry out a little between waterings. Making my own substrate gives me control over both.

Dense, compact soil might work for some houseplants, but it can suffocate tropical roots. I think of the substrate as the foundation. It should hold moisture, drain well, and let the roots breathe.

My Mixes by Type

Over time, I’ve built a few blends that work well for my collection. These aren’t strict recipes. They’re starting points I adjust based on humidity, pot type, and how the plant responds.

• For Most Anthurium

  My go-to mix includes chunky perlite, coco coir, LECA, charcoal, worm castings, and mycorrhizae. The perlite and LECA keep the mix open, the coir holds a little moisture, and the charcoal and worm castings help keep things clean and balanced. Mycorrhizae supports strong, active roots.

• For Anthurium Seedlings

  Seedlings need more moisture but still need airflow. I use tree fern fiber mixed with perlite, a bit of Orchiata bark, and just a touch of charcoal and worm castings. It holds moisture without compacting and keeps the roots from drying out too fast.

• For Alocasia Babies

  Alocasia seedlings like more consistent moisture. I mix Fluval Stratum and perlite with a small amount of tree fern fiber. It drains well, holds enough water, and supports quick root development.

• For Larger Alocasia

  Once they mature, I switch to pon. It drains quickly, prevents rot, and gives their larger root systems stability and consistent moisture.

Balancing Moisture and Airflow

No matter what I mix, the goal is always the same: keep the roots hydrated but never soggy. The right balance depends on your space and watering habits. My humidity stays moderate, so I use chunkier blends that allow extra airflow.

I like the substrate to feel slightly damp, not wet. If it feels compacted or heavy, I add more perlite or LECA to open it up. A good mix should feel loose, textured, and alive.

Why Clear Pots Work So Well With These Mixes

Most of my plants grow in clear, self-watering pots because I can see exactly what’s going on below the surface. I can check root health, watch moisture levels, and see how the mix is performing.

If I notice condensation or dark patches, I know the mix is holding too much water. If it looks dry all the way through, I refill the reservoir. Seeing roots grow along the sides of the pot is a good sign that the mix is working and the plant is happy.

What I’ve Learned

Mixing your own substrates makes a big difference in plant health and confidence. It helps you understand what your plants actually need and how they respond. Once you see how roots behave in the right mix, you’ll never go back to bagged soil.

If you’re just starting, make small batches. Mix, observe, and adjust as you go. It doesn’t have to be perfect. The key is to pay attention to your plants and let them show you what works best.