How I Mix My Own Substrates for Healthier Roots

Most store-bought houseplant soil is too dense for tropical plants. Here’s how I build my own substrates for healthy, breathable roots and steady growth.

2 min read

How I Mix My Own Substrates for Healthier Roots

Where It Started

When I first started collecting plants, I used whatever potting mix they came with. I didn’t think much about it at first. Some plants did great, others didn’t. After a while, I noticed that the ones that struggled were usually sitting in soil that stayed soggy too long and didn’t let air reach the roots.

That’s when I started experimenting. I learned that tropical plants like anthurium and alocasia grow best when the mix fits their needs. Once I began making my own substrates, everything changed. My plants grew faster, roots were stronger, and I rarely saw signs of rot.

Why I Mix My Own Substrates

Every plant’s roots have different needs. Some like to stay evenly moist while others prefer to dry out between waterings. Mixing my own substrate gives me control over how much air and moisture each one gets.

Dense, heavy soil might work for some common houseplants, but it can smother tropical roots. I think of the substrate as the plant’s foundation. It should hold moisture without trapping it and give roots plenty of space to breathe.

My Mixes by Type

Over time, I’ve built a few blends that work well for my collection. These aren’t strict recipes — they’re starting points that I adjust based on humidity, pot type, and how each plant responds.

  • For Most Anthurium

    My go-to mix includes chunky perlite, coco coir, LECA, charcoal, worm castings, and mycorrhizae. The perlite and LECA keep things airy, the coir holds just enough moisture, and the charcoal and worm castings help keep the mix clean and nutritious. Mycorrhizae supports healthy, active root systems.

  • For Anthurium Seedlings

    Seedlings need more moisture but still need airflow. I use tree fern fiber mixed with perlite. It keeps the roots from drying out while preventing compaction.

  • For Alocasia Babies

    Alocasia seedlings like their mix a little more damp. I combine Fluval Stratum and perlite with a touch of tree fern fiber. It drains well, holds enough moisture, and supports quick root development.

  • For Larger Alocasia

    As they mature, I switch to pon. It drains quickly and prevents root rot while keeping their larger root systems stable and hydrated.

Balancing Moisture and Airflow

No matter the mix, the goal is always the same — keep the roots hydrated but never soggy. The right balance depends on your space and how you water. In my home, humidity stays moderate, so I use chunkier mixes that allow for extra airflow.

I like my substrate to feel slightly damp to the touch, not wet. If it feels heavy or compacted, I add more perlite or LECA to open it up. A good mix should feel textured, airy, and alive.

Why Clear Pots Work So Well With These Mixes

I use clear, self-watering pots for most of my plants because they make it easy to see what’s happening below the surface. I can check root health, track moisture, and see how the substrate is performing.

If I notice condensation or darker spots in the mix, I know it’s holding too much water. If it looks dry all the way through, I add a bit more to the reservoir. Watching the roots grow against the sides of the pot is also a great way to tell when a plant is thriving.

What I’ve Learned

Mixing your own substrates is one of the easiest ways to take control of plant care. It helps you understand what your plants really need and how they respond to their environment. Once you see how roots behave in the right mix, you’ll never go back to pre-bagged soil.

If you’re just getting started, try small batches. Mix, observe, and adjust as you go. It doesn’t have to be complicated, just pay attention to your plants and let them guide you. The more you learn to build around their needs, the easier it becomes to help them thrive.